Returning to the Ocean of Souls: My Journey Back to Kumbh Mela

The first time I attended Kumbh Mela, it felt like a calling—something beyond logic or explanation. This time, it was longing. A pull from deep within. A knowing that I had to return. To once again dissolve into something greater than myself.

Kumbh Mela isn’t just a gathering—it’s a river of devotion, a tide of humanity flowing toward the sacred. Known as the largest spiritual retreat on Earth, it draws tens of millions to India’s holy rivers, all seeking purification, insight, and a deeper connection to the divine.

Held every few years in rotation across sacred cities, this ancient event brings together ascetics, seekers, yogis, and wanderers. Each one arrives guided by the same silent force that has pulled pilgrims across centuries.

Before I left, I read that over 400 million people were expected to attend. The number was staggering—but no statistic can prepare you for standing in that current.

A sea of bodies. A moving prayer. All flowing toward the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and the hidden Saraswati—three rivers believed to carry not just water, but spiritual liberation.

It is overwhelming at first. Your nervous system feels the pressure of the crowd, the energy, the noise. But within the chaos, there is calm. A collective awareness. Everyone is here with the same purpose.

The sadhus—renunciates with ash-covered bodies and centuries of discipline in their eyes—seem suspended between worlds. Some smile, joke, or speak English. Others remain deep in silence. If you’re lucky, grace may lead you to a true yogi—one whose presence feels like meditation itself.

Kundalini Yoga teaches us that awareness is the first step toward transformation. At Kumbh, awareness doesn’t just arise—it engulfs you. One moment, you’re moving through crowds and campfires where Sanskrit chants rise like incense. The next, you’re at the river’s edge. The sacred waters swirl around your feet. Time softens. Your breath slows.

This is why so many include Kumbh Mela in their spiritual journey or India retreat: to experience something unexplainable but deeply real.

They say bathing in the river during Kumbh offers a chance at Moksha—freedom from the cycle of birth and death. Whether or not one believes this literally, the impact is undeniable. Something shifts the moment you enter the water.

There’s a constant rhythm to the days—walking, weaving through the camps, watching camels, elephants, children performing roadside acrobatics. It’s India in her rawest, most vibrant form. As a Westerner, I was greeted with curiosity, kindness, and countless conversations. But the true pilgrimage was always inward.

Even among the contradictions—sadhus with sunglasses and smartphones—the sacred pulse is unmistakable. Kumbh Mela is a living expression of ancient yogic teachings: devotion, detachment, discipline, and wonder.

Everywhere you look, there’s color, sound, life—a spiritual retreat on a scale beyond comprehension. And yet, there’s stillness at the center of it all.

For those who feel the pull—go. But don’t go to Kumbh Mela first. Spend time in India. Sit in her temples. Let her introduce herself before you step into her soul.

For me, it felt like coming home.

Seeing familiar faces—some I may not have seen in lifetimes.

The river called.

And I answered.

By Cosmin Mahadev Singh

Interested in Exploring India Through a Spiritual Experience?

Join RYK Yoga and Meditation Center for our next India retreat, where we combine the sacred practices of kundalini yoga, daily meditation, and spiritual teachings with guided visits to India’s most powerful places.

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